Customizing the pattern for your height: The visible difference between lengthening and shortening techniques

How to Lengthen or Shorten Pants Patterns: A Step-by-Step Guide

How to Adjust Pants Patterns for Your Height: Lengthening & Shortening Guide

Are you taller or shorter than the "standard" pattern height? Don't worry! One of the best parts of sewing your own clothes is the ability to achieve a custom fit. In this guide, I will show you how to easily adjust the length of your pants patterns using the "Slash and Spread" method.

You can apply these steps to any design, but today we are using my popular Derya Pants as an example.

Don't have the pattern yet? Click here to shop the Derya Pants Pattern and start your project today!


Before You Start

To adjust your pattern, you will need:

  • Your printed pattern
  • A ruler and pencil
  • Paper scissors and adhesive tape
  • Extra pattern paper (for lengthening)

Part 1: How to Lengthen Your Pattern

If you are tall and want your pants to flow perfectly, follow these steps:

Difference between lengthening and shortening techniques

The visible difference between a lengthened and a shortened pattern.

Step 1: Cut the Pattern

Start by cutting your pattern horizontally along the knee line.

Cutting the pattern horizontally along the knee line Pattern pieces separated

Step 2: Prepare the Extension

On a separate piece of paper, draw a straight reference line. Then, draw a second line parallel to it, spaced by the amount you wish to add—for example, 5 cm.

Drawing parallel reference lines for pattern extension

Step 3: Align the Top

Align and tape the upper part of your pattern to the top line.

Aligning pattern top to the reference line

Step 4: Maintain the Grainline

Extend the grainline (center line) downwards. This is crucial to ensure your pants don't twist when worn.

Extending the grainline downwards

Step 5: Align the Bottom

Tape the bottom part of the pattern to the lower line, making sure the center grainlines match perfectly.

Taping the bottom part of the pattern

Step 6: Final Touch

Smooth out the side seams by drawing a new line to connect the pieces, and trim the excess paper.

Smooth side seams and trimmed pattern

Part 2: How to Shorten Your Pattern

If the pattern is too long for your preference, follow this simple overlap technique:

Step 1: Cut at the Knee

Just like lengthening, start by cutting the pattern along the knee line.

Cutting pattern at the knee line for shortening

Step 2: Mark the Overlap

On the pattern piece, draw a line parallel to the cut edge at the distance you want to shorten (e.g., 5 cm).

Marking the shortening line

Step 3: Overlap and Tape

Bring the two pieces together, overlapping them until the cut edge meets your marked line. Ensure the grainlines stay perfectly aligned.

Overlapping pattern pieces Taped shortened pattern

Step 4: Smooth the Edges

Since overlapping can create a small "jog" at the seams, use your ruler to blend the side lines smoothly and trim any offset edges.

Final shortened pattern with smooth edges

Conclusion

Customizing your patterns is a game-changer for your handmade wardrobe. Whether you are 155 cm or 185 cm, you deserve a fit that makes you feel confident!

Ready to try it? Get your Derya Pants Pattern now and create the perfect pair of pants tailored just for you.

SHOP THE PATTERN NOW
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