How to Lengthen or Shorten Pants Patterns: A Step-by-Step Guide
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How to Adjust Pants Patterns for Your Height: Lengthening & Shortening Guide
Are you taller or shorter than the "standard" pattern height? Don't worry! One of the best parts of sewing your own clothes is the ability to achieve a custom fit. In this guide, I will show you how to easily adjust the length of your pants patterns using the "Slash and Spread" method.
You can apply these steps to any design, but today we are using my popular Derya Pants as an example.
Don't have the pattern yet? Click here to shop the Derya Pants Pattern and start your project today!
Before You Start
To adjust your pattern, you will need:
- Your printed pattern
- A ruler and pencil
- Paper scissors and adhesive tape
- Extra pattern paper (for lengthening)
Part 1: How to Lengthen Your Pattern
If you are tall and want your pants to flow perfectly, follow these steps:
The visible difference between a lengthened and a shortened pattern.
Step 1: Cut the Pattern
Start by cutting your pattern horizontally along the knee line.
Step 2: Prepare the Extension
On a separate piece of paper, draw a straight reference line. Then, draw a second line parallel to it, spaced by the amount you wish to add—for example, 5 cm.
Step 3: Align the Top
Align and tape the upper part of your pattern to the top line.
Step 4: Maintain the Grainline
Extend the grainline (center line) downwards. This is crucial to ensure your pants don't twist when worn.
Step 5: Align the Bottom
Tape the bottom part of the pattern to the lower line, making sure the center grainlines match perfectly.
Step 6: Final Touch
Smooth out the side seams by drawing a new line to connect the pieces, and trim the excess paper.
Part 2: How to Shorten Your Pattern
If the pattern is too long for your preference, follow this simple overlap technique:
Step 1: Cut at the Knee
Just like lengthening, start by cutting the pattern along the knee line.
Step 2: Mark the Overlap
On the pattern piece, draw a line parallel to the cut edge at the distance you want to shorten (e.g., 5 cm).
Step 3: Overlap and Tape
Bring the two pieces together, overlapping them until the cut edge meets your marked line. Ensure the grainlines stay perfectly aligned.
Step 4: Smooth the Edges
Since overlapping can create a small "jog" at the seams, use your ruler to blend the side lines smoothly and trim any offset edges.
Conclusion
Customizing your patterns is a game-changer for your handmade wardrobe. Whether you are 155 cm or 185 cm, you deserve a fit that makes you feel confident!
Ready to try it? Get your Derya Pants Pattern now and create the perfect pair of pants tailored just for you.